Four
Days in The Ishi Wilderness, May, 1999
I'm back from my California adventure, and I'll try
to summarize it below, but I really can't do an adequate job. The scenery and
terrain have to be seen and felt to truly appreciate spending the time there.
But I'll do as best I can.
I
left for the airport early Wednesday morning. I mean early...about 3:30 A.M. on
Wednesday, May 5, 1999. I had a 6:30 flight, and with about an hour and a half
drive, and parking the car at a shuttle service and getting to the airport,
that turned out to be just about right. The plane was on time, and we took off.
It wasn't full, so I had no one next to me, and I tried to rest up a little,
knowing it would be a long day. I flew into St. Louis and had a short layover
and change of planes there, and it was off to Sacramento. The fellow next to me
on the plane was interesting and we chatted a part of the way and exchanged
E-mail addresses.....he is a professor who teaches
people who go into disaster areas what to do.
I
arrived at Sacramento right on time, and Richard, my author friend, was there
to meet me at the airport. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we headed to his
house to catch up on many things. I met Sharon, and talked to her for a while,
and she soon had to leave for a class she was taking.
We
went to the park close to his house, and threw the atlatl a few times, and I
tried to show him how to shoot the bow and arrow the way Ishi did, which is
entirely different from the traditional way that a bow and arrow are held and
shot.
I
repacked in order to get ready for the trip to the Ishi Wilderness the
following day. I slept poorly that night, partially because of the excitement
of being in California on the verge of an adventure, and partially because the
couch was just a couple inches too short. So morning came early, and we
prepared to depart.
We
got our gear ready, and soon Bob Price arrived. I really like Bob. He is a
former park ranger, a big strong fellow, and a really fine fellow. I had talked
him into going to the Natalie MacMaster concert in
California the week preceding, and he was very grateful I had...he loved her
performance, and her.
And
off we went toward the north, toward Chico, California, to pick up the fourth
of our party, a fellow named Dave Nopel, and his dog,
Tao. He is a soft spoken fellow in his early fifties
who runs a day care with his wife. He has been to the Ishi Wilderness numerous
times since the 1970's, and knows areas of it quite well. I am indeed the
rookie of this group.
We
continued north toward less and less population and less and less traveled
roads, until the roads are single lane, rutted and a four wheel
vehicle is needed. We had a pickup with four wheel
drive and an extended cab.
We
finally arrived at our cut off, and we took a road that is made for off road
vehicles only, and went down another half mile or so toward our final
destination. When the road got too bad, and too steep, we stopped, and Bob
parked the truck.
We
then headed off to the Ishi Wilderness on foot, with our backpacks on, and in
search of a specific cave that Ishi, the Last Yahi, had used as a storage cave
before his "capture". We headed down a long walk past an area called
Devil's Den, and further and further down we went, next to this very large
valley with large rock formations on either side. The walking was treacherous
because there were so many large loose rocks the size of your fist or smaller
that liked to give way when you stepped on them. With the backpacks, your
weight is distributed differently, so you have to compensate for that.
Our
first wildlife was seen in the form of a small rattlesnake that slithered for
cover under a rock by trail, but kept his or her warning rattle on so we would
know where it was. We left it alone, and continued on.
After
a couple of miles, we came to an area that has been called "Graham's
Pinery". Bob, Richard and I had walked some on one end of this area during
my last trip there, and found the brush to be terrible, but this seemed to be
the way to where we needed to go. The only two good things I can say about
Graham's Pinery is that it is flat, and that even though it may seem endless,
there really is an end to it.
It
was about 2:00 when we had left the vehicle, and it was approaching 4:00 when
we entered the Pinery. Unfortunately, it had not changed, and the portion we
were going through seemed worse. Thick buck brush, Manzanita, and various other
plants, including the dreaded Poison Oak were everywhere. It was so thick at
times that it was impassable, and we needed to turn around and retreat and find
another way. Trees that had died in the 1990 forest fire had fallen, and in
many places made another barrier we needed to climb over. Remember, this is
carrying the backpacks, making travel slower and more difficult.
About
7:00, we felt we had come far enough along the left ridge to cut down to the
bottom of the canyon the next day, so we searched for a suitable campsite.
There were a few areas where older growth had survived the fire, so we found an
oak clearing, and made camp. Bob and Dave felt we were running low on water, so
they made a "run" to a creek a ways away
for water for drinking and for cooking. The sun was setting fast, so Richard
and I made camp, removing some poison oak from the campsite, and searching for
the most level ground we could find.
Bob
had brought a small tent, so he and I shared that, while Richard and Dave slept
out under the stars.
They
came back with the water just after dark. I had purchased a pair of small two-way
radios to try on the trip, and they worked wonderfully in situations like this.
They would come in useful a number of times when one person would go out
scouting to try to find a way through an impassable site.
Supper
consisted of pasta with a tomato base sauce, and a squashed loaf of bread that
tasted quite good. Everyone had worked very hard to get where we were. Bob went
to his backpack and pulled out a bottle of Australian port wine that we all
shared, and we talked about a number of things until it was time for bed.
I
didn't sleep well for a few reasons, the main one being that ground is hard,
the sleeping bag is confining, and we were on a slight slope so that I kept
sliding down toward my feet. In the middle of the night, Bob woke me up and
pointed out that had retreated almost half way out of the tent toward my feet,
due to the slope, so I hitched myself back inside.
The
nights are quite chilly, verging on cold, so morning and a small fire and a cup
of coffee was just the right thing. The plan for the
day was to leave Graham's Pinery, and head down toward Deer Creek, and work the
side of Deer Creek in search of the storage cave and a village site.
We
headed down through more brush and poison oak until it opened up to the
majestic buttes and unique rock formations that I had come to recognize as so
much of the Ishi Wilderness. It is beautiful country, but overwhelming in its
breadth and ruggedness. This is not a land of the passive or the meek, and to
think that the Yahi tribe had lived and flourished here for thousands of years
is almost incomprehensible to us "modern people".
The
walk down toward Deer Creek was beautiful, but a bit treacherous, because of
the loose rock, the springs that caused footing to be slippery, and the angle
at which we descended at times. It was also long, and the thought kept going
through my mind that each step we descended would soon me another step to
ascent, since what goes down must eventually have to come up if it wants to get
back to its vehicle. That's called Roger's Law, I guess.
Rock
pillars the size of cars and city blocks were strewn throughout the landscape
showing signs of violent volcanic activity that fused former basalt formations
with newer lava formations. The caves were the result of these larger basalt
boulders releasing from the lava, essentially leaving a hole, I think. We did
find some caves, but no artifacts in them. One could tell they had been used
for many years though because of the black soot that had built up on the roofs
of some of them.
Bob
and I headed down toward Wildcat Creek to look at some interesting rock
formations that may have had caves while Richard and Dave headed toward a
larger formation about half a mile away. We kept in touch by radio. We found
some smaller caves, and some beautiful scenery, and Richard and Dave called
that they had found what they believed to be "Legend Rock", or
"The Rock to Which Legend Attaches". This is a rock formation the size
of a small house that sits overlooking the Deer Creek valley. Richard has a
story from one of the people that returned with Ishi in 1914 to this land, and
it was said that the Yahi used this for a lookout. It also had a hole on the
top that "received" the soul of deer that had been killed, and an
observation hole. Richard and Bob both climbed to the top but it was a bit too
steep for my comfort level, so I waited with Dave. Indeed, they made it to the
top.
We
documented this find with many photographs, and Richard was ecstatic that we
had found it, since it verified his story.
We
were only a third or so of the way down to the Deer Creek, so down we went,
slipping and sliding, and changing course when it got too steep to continue in
one direction. Bob went ahead with his backpack to see if he could find a way
down, and with the radio, was able to keep in touch. He did find a way down,
and on the way, and beautiful cave that seemed undisturbed. On the base of the
cave, he flipped over a rock about a foot in diameter, and there was a mortar.
This mortar was used by the Yahi to grind acorn into flour, and make acorn
mush, a staple of their diet. No one was even tempted to carry it out for two
reasons. First, we all agreed it should remain where it is because it is a part
of the Yahi culture, and secondly, no one wanted to add thirty pounds to their
backpacks. The cave had a smaller cave next to it that was neat also, and had
been used.
Soon,
we reached the waters of Deer Creek. It was rushing by, snow running off Mount
Lassen. Although many people would drink from the stream, we filtered all of
our water just to avoid a terrible parasite called "giardia". We all
went wading and washed off the poison oak and dust we had accumulated, and
filtered water for supper and for use the next day. We made camp next to the
creek, and started a fire for the evening meal of pasta and Alfredo sauce.
Okay, it maybe wasn't totally a low fat meal, but I was burning enough calories
that I didn't worry too much about it!
We
did find that all of us have an interest in the Civil War, and collecting old
books, and Ishi, so the main topics of discussion centered around
those subjects, as well as using the Internet to access all that information.
And
so to bed, for night number two in the Ishi Wilderness. We were in the right
place to look for the storage cave, but we were also in a bit of a predicament
in that there was no clear way back out, unless it was to backtrack where we
had been, and this was next to impossible.
We
discussed alternatives to getting out. Dave favored backtracking to Wildcat
Creek, crossing over, and making a long and treacherous walk to an area called
Steamboat, where we would have a long ascent to a cabin, and then a six-mile
walk to the vehicle. Another option would be to attempt to cross the roaring
Deer Creek downstream, and take a long but smooth trail back to the vehicle.
This would be a hike of about 14 miles in total. Being a non-swimmer, this did
not appeal to me unless I knew I would survive the crossing, and it was a rapid
flow.
Bob
Price had topographic maps of the area along, and it was his contention that we
could work our way along Deer Creek, search for the cave, and come to an area
where we could climb out of the valley, ascending approximately 1,000 feet to
the other side of Graham's Pinery. This would be the best way to go IF we could
find a way to the top of pinery. As one viewed the
climb, it looked imposing. Okay, it looked impossible.
I
could see toward the summit a rock ledge that seemed to continue along the
entire way.
Bob
felt that there would be places that we could go that erosion would have caused
openings to reach the top. It was a gamble to go this way, because if we
couldn't get to the top, we would have to fall back to another plan, and may
not be able to get out in time.
But
Bob knows his stuff, and can read those maps like they are 3-D, so I felt that
was the best way to try. And so we tried to work our way along the base of Deer
Creek. This was another challenge due to the terribly thick brush, and the
angle of the terrain. We wanted to go along, or with the creek, but the terrain
was sloped toward the creek, so we fought this the entire way.
About
4:30 in the afternoon, and some searching for caves along our way, we were at
the base of the "hill" we needed to climb, and it was foreboding! It
was really steep looking, with no visible way of reaching the top. Bob went to
see if he could find a way that looked passable. The rest of us descended to
the creek below and filled all the containers we had with water and drank as much
as we comfortably could for the long walk ahead. We ate trail mix and jerky to
give us some added energy, and even put some water in
a garbage bag to try to get to the top so we would have water for the coming
day. We also soaked our aching feet!
The
original plan was that he would try the ascent by himself, with his pack, and
mark the way and keep in contact by radio, but after scouting a while and to
save time, we decided to all go together.
And
so we started up, slowly zigzagging to avoid impassable stretches. There were
very thick patches of brush that were too thick to get through, and small
springs that softened the ground to make it very treacherous. We probably
shouldn't have crossed some the areas we did, but somehow we made it safely,
and continued the ascent. Some areas were so steep you could only go about 20
steps and you needed a rest. You had to keep your weight forward so that if you
did slip you did not fall backward, for it was a long way down.
This
was not fun. This was one of those challenges that we meet in our walk through
life...or should I say our climb through life. You can either give up or go on.
Our feet burned, our backs ached, we were reaching exhaustion, and the unknown
lay ahead of us. We went on. I had thoughts of darkness descending while were
ascending, which would have been another challenge. Ever see those guys who are
climbing a mountain, and they have this little hammock they pitch, and they
sleep right on the edge of the mountain? I didn't want to do that.
We
soon were high enough to see the rock summit, and so what we needed was a
fissure or an erosion that was sloped enough for us to
get through to the top. Richard headed to the right, and Bob to the left.
Richard soon returned saying he thought he had found a way, and it looked like
we could get out that way. I talked to Bob on the radio, and he came back, and
off we went for what I was hoping to be the final ascent. Again, loose rock on
a steep slope, and brush made the way difficult, but we did continue going up.
With a few more zigs and few more zags,
we worked our way slowly to the top, resting often.
And
then we made it! There had been a trail, probably for deer, that had cut into
the terrain, and allowed the last few hundred feet to the top of the pinery, and level ground. It was about 7:00, so we still
had some daylight remaining, so after a brief rest, we continued on. We were on
the opposite side of the pinery, so we would have to
head down this side, and then cut over to try to reach our trail that we had
used when we had come in.
Tao,
Dave's dog, was very quiet for the trip, and really stayed pretty close to him.
She had gotten a little limp, but managed to keep up just fine, and in only a
few cases did we need to assist her in coming with us...a little boost now and
then. She did manage to get close enough to a skunk one day to get sprayed a
bit, but it was not overwhelming, just "skunky".
The
brush, unfortunately, was as thick as on the other side. We went for another
hour, and about 8:00 found a site to make camp for the night. We were all
really tired, but feeling good about where we were. Bob got the award for the
prettiest blister on his foot, and I photographed it in the morning for posterity. Supper our
last night consisted of ramen noodles and premixed cups of mashed potatoes,
along with some dried fruit and trail mix. Bob had also kept some peach vodka
to drink this last night, and it really tasted quite good. We got the tent set
up, and after some talking and discussion, we
turned in for the night.
The
weather again got cool, verging on cold, but the stars shone, and the next day,
the sun shone. Thank goodness! If we had gotten rain where we were, I doubt if
we would have been able to climb out of the valley. And if we had, I doubt if
we could have driven the truck out, because it was a very steep and slippery
place where it was parked. And so the spirit of Ishi continued with us.
In
the morning we packed up for the last time, and had a long tough walk ahead of
us. Richard had come down with a bad case of poison oak, so his arms, legs, and
face were showing the effects of this. It seems very much like poison ivy,
where it affects some people, but not others. I feel so lucky not to have
gotten it because it really is totally unavoidable. It rubs against your
clothing, you grab it for a hand hold, it slaps
against your face. And it is everywhere! Dark valleys, or sunny plains, it will
be there.
About
9:00 we headed east, into the Manzanita, poison oak, buck brush, and fallen
trees, on toward the climb to the vehicle. Eventually, we came to a more open
place where we could hook up with an animal trail, and we actually made good
time. As Bob said later, we made too good a time. We went so far that we
overshot our turnoff, and continued ahead, so that we eventually had to
backtrack a good distance. This, of course, was after the brush returned, and
we needed to bulldoze our way again. I don't think our packs ever seemed
heavier, or our muscles ached more.
We
tried to share the burden of the weight so that if one person got too tired, we
would distribute some of his load, and eventually, after many hours of walking,
we reconnected to our trail.
This
left only one more challenge to overcome, since our walk to this point has been
downhill on our way in. Yes, indeed, it was now one last push uphill, on those
same slippery and loose rocks, as we ascended toward the vehicle. We took our
time, and about 3:00, we were within striking distance of the vehicle. Bob had
his cellular phone along, so we took time to make a few calls. I called Joan
and my mom, since it was Mother's Day, and I wish they could have seen from
where I was calling!
In
about another mile, most of it uphill, we came to the vehicle, and we loaded
our packs in the back. There was water at the car, so we drank and ate some
remaining sweet stuff, and got ready for the drive out. I removed my boots and
put on some moccasins I had on, and that felt so good!
And
so we headed toward Chico. We decided to find a nice place to eat, and have one
last meal together, before the ride back to Sacramento, but it was Mother's
Day, so most places were quite busy. Richard had remembered that a local
brewery had a very nice eating place called, "The Sierra Ale Brewery
Company Restaurant", so we went there, cleaned up as best we could, and
shared a pitcher of ale, and a great meal.
We
dropped Dave and his dog off in Chico, and headed toward Sacramento, and a hot
shower. I asked Bob if he would buy a topographic map for me, and draw on the
route where we had trekked as a memento, and he said he could put all three
trips on there, in different colors, so that will really be neat to have.
Richard
was happy because he had found Legend Rock, and although the storage cave had
eluded us, he considered the trip a success.
I
considered the trip a success too because of what I had personally
accomplished. It was not what I had expected. I did not want a physical
challenge; I wanted to be able to enjoy the majestic scenery and the mystery of
the land, and look for Yahi caves and arrowheads.
This
was definitely the most physically challenging trip I had ever made, and I had
not only survived it, I had kept up with the group the entire way, and
contributed to the success of the trip. If I had any doubts of my physical
conditioning prior to this trip, I do not have them now. As Joan said when I
got home and showed her my legs with multiple abrasions and bruises, "You
should have done this when you younger, but you probably weren't in as good a
shape as you are now!"
We
arrived
back in Sacramento about 9:30 in the evening, and I said goodbye to Bob. He is
a special kind of guy that I wish I could see more of and am proud to call my
friend.
I
took a long hot shower. Richard tried to treat his poison oak as best he could,
but he knew he would need to see a doctor for the right medication the next
day.
Amazingly,
I still had trouble sleeping the last night. So much that we had accomplished,
and being so tired, you would think I could have slept anywhere, but the mind
and the body are not always in exact synchronization, I guess.
The
next morning, I had enough time to get my pictures developed, and exchange
pictures with Richard, and then to the airport.
I
often think how the internet, and one note from
Richard, led to all of this. It was so gracious of him and Sharon to take to me
in and treat me so wonderfully, and include me on these wonderful adventures I
might not have had.
The
flight back was long, but smooth, and all the connections were on time, so I
arrived in Minneapolis at 8:30, got my luggage, got the shuttle to the car, and
drove home. I kept the driver's window down most of the way to get the cool air
on me, and try to stay awake, and I got home about 10:00.
It
was good to be home.